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There is too much anxiety surrounding the purchase of a car. It is like walking into a den of lions. You know you have no chance. Or do you?”
You will spend a great deal of time and money preparing to purchase, negotiating a purchase, and ultimately, paying for the purchase of vehicles during your lifetime. The average person will own, or should I say, make payments on, at least seven vehicles during his or her lifetime. If you have children who will eventually become teenagers and need a car, you will be involved in extra car purchase transactions that will make an already challenging task much more difficult. Finding a car that is cool enough for a teenager to be happy driving, and also finding one that is affordable, is a remarkable undertaking in and of itself. Forget about the formidable task of dealing with the people who will be selling and financing that vehicle. The car buying process has been written about quite a bit in recent years. The many dealer tactics for extracting every possible penny of profit out of every vehicle sale have been well documented and exposed to consumers. The fact that these sometimes tricky (and always profitable for the dealer) techniques have been exposed to the public has led, in my opinion, to a great increase in the stress and anxiety surrounding the purchase of a vehicle. Like they say, “What you don’t know can’t hurt you.” This is true, in part, when it comes to buying a car. When we did not know so much about how the dealers and manufacturers were gouging us at every turn, we weren’t as anxious about stepping onto the dealer’s lot. Now that we know more about the strategies used to sell cars, which start from the minute we read an advertisement in the paper, or hear one of those loud car commercials on the radio, and continue right through to the financing department and the service department, it makes the entire event very stressful, and one we wish we could avoid. It is a bit like the difference between knowing you are walking through a field full of dangerous land mines and taking the same walk but not knowing there are any mines in the field. Once you know the danger exists, your stress level goes way up as you work hard to avoid being hurt by things you cannot see. To my knowledge, unlike walking through fields full of landmines, no person has ever died as a result of shopping for a car. I can’t say for sure, but I don’t think the experience is quite as dangerous physically as walking through a minefield. However, it is an experience that can be very dangerous to your financial plan. If you make mistakes, it can cause the ruin of your long-term financial goals and good credit standing. And I know plenty of people who have gotten very ill during and after the car shopping experience. Myself included. This is especially true once you realize how bad a deal you may have signed up for. It is such an exhausting experience for most people; they don’t even read the paperwork and the fine print on the contract until after they get home from several hours at the dealership. Many people never read their contract. I’ve heard people in a dealership say, “I don’t care what the paperwork says, just tell me my monthly payment and let me go home.” I do feel, however, that we would stand to be hurt much worse financially by not knowing as much as we now know about the entire car selling system. In this sense, what we don’t know can hurt us because it puts us at the mercy of a very powerful, well-oiled—pardon the pun—selling machine.

WHY TAKE A CAR LOAN?
Most people finance vehicle purchases for five years. How can you blame anyone? The average sticker price for a new vehicle is more than $21,000. Few people have that kind of cash available to use for buying a new car. And, admit it, even if you had that much cash in your savings account, would you really consider taking it all out and using it to buy a car? Probably not. We have been programmed over the years to pay for large purchases by financing them and paying for them on a monthly basis. Who do you think has done this programming? Yes, the banks and finance companies. It is how they stay in business and make their profits. Big profits, I might add. The consumer’s reliance on financing big purchases also allows companies that sell very expensive items, like car dealers, to keep increasing their prices. This has led to amazing growth in the cost of vehicles over the years. At the same time, we are told to do everything possible to build up savings for retirement, college tuition, and emergencies. This is confusing and makes it difficult for the average consumer to mentally justify parting with over $20,000 in cash to buy a car. Even if it made sense financially to pay cash, it would be a difficult decision for the average person. This is a very important point I would like you to understand. It is generally a good idea to avoid paying interest when you buy anything. However, when you take into account the prevailing interest rates for car loans and rates of return on investments you could be making, it may not make financial sense for you to pay cash for a car or any other large purchase just to avoid the interest cost, even if you can afford to pay the cost of the item in full. Since we are constantly managing many different interest rates and payments for our families, such as credit cards, automobile purchases or leases, mortgage interest, and the interest on other types of loans, we must be selective and smart about what interest we choose to carry on our debt load. It can be a difficult decision, but, a very important one that will change with time. As the prime interest rate keeps getting lower and the price of borrowing money gets cheaper, a car loan’s interest rate may be very reasonable when compared with credit-card interest rates that you may be carrying. If you have an 18 percent interest rate on an $8,000 credit card debt, financing your car at 5 or 6 percent interest and putting extra cash on the higher credit card debt makes the most sense. Paying cash for a car you could finance at 6 percent but continuing to pay the minimum payment on an 18-percent interest-rate credit card is a bad decision. By the way, if I were in that situation, I personally would seek to pay off the credit card before I even thought about buying or leasing a car. However, I live in the real world and realize you don’t always have a choice. If your car stops running, or is costing you more each month than a new car would cost to keep running, it is a requirement to get some wheels that run no matter how much debt you have. You have got to get to work or nobody gets paid. At the end of the day, it is usually a good idea to avoid paying interest on a depreciating item like an automobile. This is the biggest problem with buying a vehicle. They begin to depreciate in value from the minute you drive them off of the dealer’s lot. In reality, they are depreciating every minute they sit on the lot as well. Unlike a house, which can appreciate in value as it ages because of location and other factors, cars lose value as they age. Except for very rare vehicles and collector’s items, the average car or truck loses 50 to 60 percent of its value in the first two years after it rolls off of the assembly line. It is difficult to win financially when you buy a vehicle. It is an expense, not an investment. But, you have no choice. Our society demands mobility. As our cities become more spread out, it just isn’t practical for anyone to think they can do without a car. If you have ever used public transportation you know that it is not something you want to rely on for all of your transportation needs.

DEALING WITH THE DEALERS
So, we are left with the realization that we must deal with the sellers of automobiles. Again, we are operating in a system that requires us to spend money to survive. In the case of automobiles, we have to spend a lot of money. But, you can still spend your way to wealth in the area of car buying. There are few areas of personal finance where it is so important and can be so profitable over the long-term to be a Power Buyer. Most people settle for the cheapest car they can find that may still meet their family’s needs. I am here to tell you that you don’t have to settle for a vehicle that you don’t like simply because of price. You can drive better cars for the rest of your life by arming yourself with some powerful knowledge and proven strategies. If you want to get a good deal on a new car, I think you first have to define for yourself what a good deal is. Unlike the real estate market, it is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to find undervalued vehicles for sale. Car dealers have huge overhead costs in order to be in the business, from staff to inventory to advertising, and therefore must mark up their product accordingly. Dealers also have the opportunity to include add-on costs and fees and we really don’t have much of a choice but to pay them. Even though there are many car dealerships in most cities now, there are still a limited number of them. And they all play the same pricing and sales games so it does not matter where you go. If you don’t like dealership number one you can certainly go to dealership number two. But, dealership two won’t be much better. Don’t forget that the dealers are also in the financing business. This gives them added leverage to create a profit due to our lack of knowledge. You have a better chance of finding a good deal from an individual owner selling a car. However, individual owners who have their cars for sale are either having trouble making their own payments and owe more than the car is worth, or they are selling a very old car. Whether you deal with an individual or a dealership, you are going to have to be a tough and knowledgeable negotiator in order to save money and avoid being stuck with high payments over a long period of time. You won’t be able to define your good deal until you do some pre negotiation research. Only through detailed research will you know how much is too much to pay in all areas of the vehicle purchase. This includes standard equipment, add-ons, financing, extended warranties, and any other item that could be included in the transaction. You cannot fake this. The professional salespeople know when you are faking. They have a product you want and they know it. Your goal is to learn the language of car sales and
financing. Once you get your bearings—like speaking the language in a foreign country—you will be able to get around much more easily and you won’t be easy prey for sales tactics and often confusing negotiations. A popular strategy is to simply never buy a new car. If you buy vehicles that are two to three years old, you will have the opportunity to save money. It is not automatic, however. Since car dealers realize that savvy consumers are onto the depreciation of new cars, they have had to refine their tactics in the used car market as well. Used cars offer car dealers equal opportunity to mark vehicles up beyond their market value. There are plenty of unsuspecting used car shoppers. This is especially true among people who have had past financial problems, which may have damaged their credit. With damaged credit, it is more difficult to qualify for the lowest interest rates, so these consumers have little choice but to shop for less-expensive used cars. If you need a car and have little time to shop, have damaged credit, and are uninformed about the basics of smart car buying, the worst place for you to be is on a dealer’s lot. You have little to no chance of leaving the lot in a positive financial position. I think it is a good time for me to make the point that I do not think car dealers and automobile manufacturers are bad people. Just the opposite, they are some of the sharpest business minds in the world. They have mastered their business like few entrepreneurs have. You must respect that. Yes, there are bad operators in every industry who will taint everyone in that particular business by their unethical behavior. The business of automobile sales lends itself a bit more easily to anti-consumer behavior, so those in this, business have gotten a great deal of bad press over the years. In the end, you have to deal with this group, so you can choose to lose, or plan to win. It is totally up to you. While you are doing your homework, it also makes sense to fully research the complaint records of car dealers you may choose to visit with your state or local consumer protection agency or Better Business Bureau before you spend a great deal of time on the lot. As I have said, information and knowledge are the keys to winning the car-buying game. But, even before you start shopping and researching, you have got to take a serious look at your family’s financial position and what your family needs for proper and safe transportation.

HOW MUCH CAR CAN YOU AFFORD?
You must decide in your spending plan exactly how much you can afford to pay for a vehicle on a monthly basis and, also, in total. You also need to plan how much of a down payment you can make. A car dealer is going to try to qualify you for the most expensive car possible, as you would expect. You must choose a car that will fit into your plan. Again, this purchase is a pure expense. Emotion should not factor into the business decision. If you want a more expensive car, you need to know what it costs new and used. You need to then plan your spending around your desire for that type of car. You can save 10 to 20 percent on the new vehicle you want by doing research and learning to be a good negotiator. You can save 50 percent or more by buying the car you want used. If you want a new car, there is no way you will ever purchase the vehicle for 50 percent off of the purchase price. Not even the dealers can get new cars at 50 percent off of the manufacturers suggested retail price. The first thing to do is to decide on a class of vehicle that best fits your lifestyle. How will the car be used? If you’re concerned about taking your kids to football and soccer practice, you’re probably going to need a car with lots of seating and storage capacity. If you’re planning to use the car for commuting long distances to work, gas mileage and comfort may be your biggest considerations. Next, decide what features you simply must have. You have lots of choices for comfort like air conditioning, lumbar supports, anti-lock brake systems, integrated seat belt systems, head injury protection, and child protection equipment. List your “must have” items and the “it would be nice to have but, we don’t really need them,” items. For information about car safety features, recalls, crash tests, and other auto safety topics, go to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration’s (NHTSA) Web site at www.nhtsa.dot.gov. You can also call NHTSA’s toll-free Auto Safety Hotline at (888) 327–4236 and have information sent to you.

COMPARISON SHOP
It has never been easier to comparison-shop and fully research your options. Read Consumer Reports (www.consumerreports.org), Popular Mechanics (www.popularmechanics.com), and Motor Trend (www.motortrend.com) for performance, service, and safety ratings. Visit www.autoweb.com, www.autovantage.com, www.carpoint.com, www.autobytel.com, or, my personal favorite, www.Edmunds.com, to get quotes and tons of detailed information about the entire car-buying process. The most important information that these sites provide, in my opinion, are the financial details between manufacturers and the car dealers. For instance, you can learn what a dealer gets paid by a manufacturer when a vehicle is sold within a certain period of time. This is called a dealer holdback. Two key things to look for are the dealer’s invoice price for the car and the cost of options. The invoice price is what the manufacturer charged the dealer for the car, not counting any rebates, allowances, or other incentives that reduce the cost to the dealer. The dealer will almost always receive some sort of incentives that will lower their cost below the invoice price. So, while you will never really know the dealer’s true cost, you will be close. You will be able to find out if the manufacturer is offering rebates that will lower the cost as well as any special financing offers. You should also research the MSRP, which is the base price of a particular vehicle before options and delivery charges are factored in. Your goal is to avoid paying the MSRP. After you narrow your search to a few makes and models, analyze the pros and cons for each. Check out the retail value, fair market value, and wholesale value, available options, performance, and track record for repairs.

MAXIMIZE YOUR TRADE-IN
Before you begin to negotiate your purchase, don’t forget to do the same type of research on the vehicle you plan to trade-in. This is very important. You need to get the maximum possible trade-in price. You’ll have your work cut out for you. Dealer representatives will look for a thousand things wrong with your trade-in, from high mileage to minor scratches, in order to lower the value. The more prepared you are, the easier time you will have. You will almost always make more money on your used car by selling it yourself. It is definitely less convenient than trading it in at the dealer. However, you could easily earn an extra $1,000 to $5,000 for your used car by selling it yourself. You have to decide how hard you are willing to work for that amount of money. Consider, also, that extra money used as a down payment will reduce the amount you have to borrow and pay interest on over the life of your car loan.

NEGOTIATE WITH ATTITUDE
Armed with your research, you can now begin to negotiate with people who are selling automobiles. Even the best-prepared consumer can have a difficult time once they get face to face with trained salespeople. A salesperson will size you up immediately and the price you end up paying could have a lot to do with your attitude and demeanor during the entire process. You must send a clear message right from the start that you are friendly, but well prepared; you know your stuff, and will only pay a fair price for the vehicle. In order to save a great deal of your valuable time, and start to send the message that you plan to control the buying process, I suggest you begin by getting price quotes from several dealers via telephone, fax, or e-mail. This will also allow you to create a competitive bidding process for your business. As you will learn from your research, the “factory invoice price” is the same for all dealers of the brand of vehicle you are interested in buying. This will be your reference point and you should make it a point to tell the salesperson that you will expect to see the actual factory invoice for any car you consider buying. When you request your quote, you should also ask for a list of any additional charges that are not listed on the factory invoice. This would include dealer add-ons like document preparation, options, special handling, rust-proofing, and anything else that would increase the total price of the car. Ask if the amounts quoted are the prices before or after the rebates are deducted. You are bound to be told by some salespeople that they aren’t allowed to give out prices over the phone, or they will beat any price you can find. They will always ask you how much you are looking to pay for the car. They will, most likely, all tell you that they offer the lowest rates of any dealer in town. Just be honest with them; tell them that if they don’t want to provide a price quote, you will not consider their dealership. Explain that your time for shopping is very limited and assure them you are a serious buyer. You will eventually have to go to the dealership to complete the purchase. Never buy anything, especially very expensive items, on impulse or because the salesperson is pressuring you to make a decision. Be sure to read and understand every document you are asked to sign and never sign anything until you have made a final decision to buy. The dealer will try to bundle your trade-in, purchase price, and financing all together once they find out how much you are willing to pay and how much you can qualify for as a monthly payment. Handle these three as separate transactions from each other to get the best deal on each one. Be sure to read the “Buyer’s Guide” sticker required to be displayed in the window of the car. It gives information on warranties, if any are offered, and provides other information, such as standard equipment included in the purchase price, delivery charges, fuel economy, and the total “sticker price.” The total sticker price is MSRP plus option costs, delivery costs, and adjustments. Be on the lookout for the second sticker, often referred to as the “sucker sticker.” The dealer may add all sorts of additional charges to the sticker price to boost profit. Offering to give you a discount off of the second sticker price is a common tactic but is not doing you any favors financially. If the “warranty” box is checked off on the “Buyers Guide,” ask for a copy and review it before you agree to buy the car. Test-drive several models before you make a final choice, and once you make a final choice, inspect and test-drive the vehicle you plan to buy very carefully. Once you drive it off of the lot you lose a great deal of leverage to get small dings and other repairs done for free. Be careful of salespeople who tell you to take the car home and make an appointment to have something fixed at a later date. If they want to sell you the car, they can take care of the item now. There are some exceptions. You may order an option, which has to be special ordered before being installed. You may want to take the car until the option is delivered if it is going or weeks. to take a few days

CLOSING THE DEAL
Eventually you will decide to go ahead and make a purchase and the next phase of the transaction begins. First of all, don’t be misled into thinking that you have an automatic three-day cancellation period for all purchases. It is a commonly used tactic to push you into a sale by telling you that you can change your mind within three days and cancel the contract. You can only legally cancel a few types of contracts. Check your state’s laws regarding contract cancellation. By the same token, you should never take possession of the car until the financing paperwork is final. You take a risk of having the deal changed on you. Maybe a higher interest rate or a few extra thousand dollars of down payment might suddenly have to be added to get the deal financed. If you already are using the car, you lose leverage. It is a very good idea for you to shop in advance for good financing deals at your credit union, bank, or local finance company. When you finance a car, the finance charge must be stated as an Annual Percentage Rate (APR). Compare the APR and total finance charge offered by independent financial institutions with the financing offered by the dealer. You should be looking at the total cost, not just the monthly payment. Avoid high-profit, low-value extras sold by dealers, such as credit insurance, extended service contracts, auto club memberships, rust-proofing, and upholstery finishes. You do not have to purchase credit insurance in order to get a loan. The other items are generally available for much less outside of the car dealership. Dealers will always try to sell you an “extended warranty” or service contract when you buy a new or used car. A warranty comes with a new car and is included in the original price of the vehicle. A service contract is sold separately and is a promise to pay for certain repairs or services. Service contracts are usually high-profit add-ons, costing hundreds of dollars to more than $1,000. The service contract may duplicate warranty coverage you get from the manufacturer or dealer. For that matter, an extended warranty may duplicate coverage by the manufacturer’s warranty. If you choose to purchase extended service, you will want to know who is responsible for providing the outlined services: the dealer, the manufacturer, or an independent company. Don’t assume that it is automatically the dealer. Ask and understand what happens to your coverage if the dealer or administrator goes out of business. Learn the process for how repair claims will be handled and make sure you fully understand if you will be responsible for paying any additional deductible or co-payments or service fees. The service contract may prohibit you from taking your car to an independent station for routine maintenance or performing the work yourself. That might include very basic service like changing the oil, which is usually more expensive if it has to be done at the dealer’s service center. You may also be required to have your vehicle serviced on a scheduled basis whether you think you need it or not. Failure to keep up manufacturer’s recommendations for routine maintenance can void the service contract and you’ll be out the money you paid for it. Make sure your service contract can travel with you to another state if you travel or move out of town. Watch out for exclusions that deny coverage for any reason and other terms that could cost extra when repairs are made.

CONSIDERING A USED CAR?
As we’ve discussed, used cars offer you the best chance to own the car of your dreams at an affordable price. The biggest issue with buying a used vehicle is its condition. If you have automotive repair skills, or are close to someone who does, buying a used car is a little safer. For the majority of us, buying a used car is much more of a risk. There are companies and individuals who will check out used cars before you purchase them for a fee. It is probably not a good idea to ask the dealer for recommendations. You will have to find these experts on your own. Often your bank could be helpful. A local mechanic at a service station you are familiar with could be helpful but you really need to check and verify his credentials and experience. Once you find a mechanic you trust and are comfortable working with, you can begin to search for an acceptable used car. It is a good idea to check the classifieds, Auto Trader Magazine, and the Internet for used cars. Finding a used vehicle that is in good, clean condition will take time and energy. Any required repairs will help you bring your offer price down since you will have the expense of bringing the car back to proper condition. Look at the vehicle very closely and note any and all damage or problems. This is where your mechanic can earn his weight in gold. There are some other, smart-buyer strategies you should use when buying used cars. Seek a dealer that covers used cars with at least a thirty day, 100 percent warranty where the dealer agrees to pay all repair costs for covered items. Try to avoid “As Is—No Warranty” cars. Some states have laws giving extra protection to used-car buyers. Contact your state or local consumer protection office to find out what rights you have. Check with your state’s department of motor vehicles for information on the car’s title history. Make sure the car is not a “lemon buy-back,” salvaged, or wrecked car. You should insist on getting a written mileage disclosure statement. This is required by federal law from any seller and you should be sure it matches the odometer reading on the car. It is always a good idea to check the title to the car before you sign on the dotted line. If you are buying from a private individual you should understand that private sellers generally have less responsibility than dealers for defects or other problems. Make sure the seller isn’t a dealer posing as an individual. That might mean the dealer is trying to evade the law and might be an indicator of problems with the car. Look closely at the title and registration. Make sure the seller is the registered owner of the vehicle. It is really important to ask the seller lots of detailed questions about the car.

SHOULD YOU LEASE?
In recent years, leasing has become a very popular way for people to afford to drive automobiles. Once reserved exclusively for business people and companies that needed fleets of automobiles, leasing was introduced to the general public and quickly has become a popular way for consumers to afford newer and more luxurious vehicles. In fact, leasing is the choice in about 28 percent of all new-car transactions. I am, personally, a fan of leasing for many reasons. I remember distinctly when I became interested in leasing. It was the day I mailed in the last payment on the last car I had purchased and financed. That day, I was at an automotive service center getting a $600 estimate for fixing the air conditioning on the car. The air-conditioning system had stopped working the day before. That was the day I realized what a bad investment cars can be; after a while, they break down and start costing a lot of money to keep running. Even if it doesn’t break down, it is an old car. Leasing is not the perfect choice for everyone. It really has to be a decision based on your lifestyle and spending plan. For example, now that my oldest son, Drew, is about four years away from wanting a car of his own, I am seriously considering purchasing my next car so that I would be able to pass it onto him when he is ready. These are the basic differences between leasing and buying. When you lease, you pay to drive someone else’s vehicle. Leasing is just a fancy word for renting. Although leasing usually provides for lower monthly payments than a loan, at lease end, you have no ownership or equity in the car. With a lease, you don’t pay interest or finance charges as you do on a loan, but you do pay rent charges, which are calculated using the lease rate or “money factor.” The money factor is used to calculate the leasing company’s monthly fee (the rent charge). Clearly, your goal is to negotiate the lowest possible money factor or lease rate. The Consumer Leasing Act requires leasing companies to disclose standardized information to lease customers. In addition to the information disclosed on a standardized form, you should always ask for an itemization of the capitalized cost. You should shop as if you’re buying a car. You want to know your total payments with interest over the term of the lease. Understand that you may negotiate all the lease terms, including the price of the vehicle, how many miles per year are included in the lease, the down payment, and the purchase option price at the end of the lease. Lowering the lease price will help reduce your monthly payments. You will receive the terms of the lease in writing. Be sure to pay close attention to the leasing company’s standards for wear and use. Tire wear and dings that you may regard as normal wear and tear may be billed as significant damage at the end of your lease. You can expect to pay a substantial charge if you give the car up before the end of your lease. Most leases allow you to drive 12,000 to 15,000 miles a year and then you are responsible for a charge of ten to twenty-five cents for each additional mile. You do not pay for the mileage at the end of each year so don’t get too hung up on it unless you drive a lot of miles every year. If you use your vehicle for typical driving, you should look at the total mileage you are given in the lease. For example, if you are given 12,000 free miles each year, and the lease is for three years, you have a total of 36,000 miles you can drive. The last year of the lease is when you might have to make some adjustments in your driving so you don’t go over the allotted amount. One of the things I like about new-car leases is that the manufacturer’s warranty covers the entire lease term. If something breaks, you are covered while you are leasing the car. When you purchase a car, your warranty coverage could end while you are still making payments on the vehicle, leaving you totally responsible for the cost of repairs. Be sure to get every item of equipment included with the car listed on the lease. Otherwise, you could be charged for “missing” equipment at the end of the lease. Be careful to review your lease for any charges that were not disclosed by the salesperson, like conveyance, disposition, and preparation fees. Make sure you get credit for any trade-in just as you would with a purchase. When you finance a car, the finance charge must be stated as an APR. There is no similar requirement for disclosing the cost of leases. “Lease rates” or “money factors” do not have standardized definitions and are not equivalent to an APR. Your lease agreement will disclose the rent charge. Be sure this amount is explained to you and that you understand all charges fully before you sign the lease agreement. Another great reason to lease is the tax savings. Sales tax, in most states, is only paid on the lease payments rather than the full price of the vehicle. The shorter the lease term, the more sales tax you save compared with purchasing the vehicle. If you buy a vehicle and wrap the sales tax into the financing, you will pay interest on top of the sales tax. To buy or to lease is a question to answer by using your spending plan and deciding where you want to be financially at the end of the lease or purchase financing term. It may make more sense, based on your spending plan, for you to lease. Lower monthly payments and no cash out of pocket may be more important right now than having a used vehicle worth a few thousand dollars in three to five years. If you lease, at the end of the lease you will have to deal with these same decisions again. If you buy a vehicle, there is a good chance that you will get a few years after you pay off the loan where you may not have a car payment. If you find yourself in that position, I urge you to continue to pay yourself that monthly payment that you have become used to making and living without. Use it to pay down debt or as a down payment to buy a new home. Keep in mind that, eventually, your vehicle will wear out and you will need to get another one. Perhaps the idea of having a new vehicle every two to three years is appealing enough to you to not mind having a perpetual car payment. As long as you plan the payments into your monthly and yearly spending plans you can drive the car you want to drive on the financial terms that work best for you and your family.

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