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The following procedure worked like magic for me when I was buying cars to resell and will work just as effectively when buying a car for yourself or a loved one. You have found a car you may want to buy. The seller has answered all the questions to your satisfaction. The price is negotiable. Now comes the fun: inspection of the vehicle! Take your time and enjoy it. This is where you are learning! Each car you inspect will add to your knowledge of the used car market. After you look at many used cars, you will be able to immediately get the "feel" for a good car.
Don't hurry the inspection. Let the seller know you are picky! This attitude
will help you negotiate a better deal. It As you look over the car, verbalize all the
Problems you find. Will help deflate the seller's ego about his car. Your job is to
Convince him the car is not worth what he thinks. In fact, you want to create the
idea you're doing him a favor buying such a car. Be subtle! Don't actually say what
I just wrote. By pointing out all the problems with the car you'll be accomplishing
the same thing.
Make a list of the defects as you inspect. You can use this list as a bargaining
tool when you begin to negotiate the price. Every problem you AND he are aware
takes dollars off his asking price.
There are some basic tools you should take to help do a good inspection. A
flashlight: use it to look for rust in wheel wells. Have some rags to wipe your hands
and to check fluid levels. A magnet will help you determine if plastic body filler has
been used to replace rusted metal. You'll need a screwdriver to poke around. Have
a spark plug wrench with you. You'll want to pull one plug to check engine
performance. Don't rely on your memory. A small note pad and pen should be used
to keep track of the defects you find.
There are six parts to a thorough car inspection.
1. EYEBALLS
2. MILEAGE
3. EXTERIOR
4. INTERIOR
5. ENGINE/DRIVE TRAIN
6. TEST DRIVE
EYEBALLS
What is your first eyeball impression of the car? How do you feel about the
car? Do you like its overall looks? Don't look at the dirt or the need for a wash and
wax job. Look at the car! Does it have basic curb appeal? Would you buy it for
yourself?
Don't under estimate this part of the inspection! If you don't like the car
others won't either. You don't want to have to "sell". You want the car to sell itself
after a little cosmetic work. Did it "sell" you? If not, forget it. Walk away. There
will be others!
Remember, if you are purchasing a product for resale. It’s a business
transaction, nothing else. To maximize your profits and minimize your risks, the car
must have this curbside appeal. No one wants to drive a "new" car that isn't nice.
The car must be "pleasant", but not necessarily a cream puff. The new owner must
be proud of his purchase. Remember. " If it looks good, it must be good!" Right?
Wrong, wrong, wrong! And that leads us right into the inspection.
MILEAGE
The mileage of a vehicle can be used as a general indicator for common
problems. You'll want to look for these problems when you do your inspection.
History has shown that after major milestones certain parts may fail.
A car should average 12,000 miles a year. Anything substantially more or
less can mean a problem. When a car reaches 100,000 or more miles, the need for a
thorough inspection is nil. The potential for major problems is so great most buyers
will be afraid of the car. If you do buy a car with this kind of mileage, make sure
you steal it i.e., $500 to $800 dollars and don't expect to make more than $300 to
$500 profit. It is very risky to buy this kind of car.
So let's talk about the things to watch for at major mileage milestones.
UNDER 20,000 MILES
A car with this few miles has either no problems or a lot of problems. Be
careful, it could be a lemon! It may have had the odometer rolled back. But buyer,
you beware! Why is the owner selling a low mileage car?
20,000 to 30,000 MILES
Brakes and tires may be going at this mileage. Check them. Look for
unusual wear of the tires. Starters, alternators and electrical operated systems may
begin failing.
30,000 to 40,000 MILES
The suspension system is beginning to weaken in this middle mileage car.
Use the road test to check it. Does it shimmy; pull to one side? Listen for
transmission noise and clunk in the universal joints when starting up or shifting
gears. When was the last front end alignment done? Check the tires for abnormal
wear indicating a suspension problem.
40,000 to 50,000 MILES
Transmissions, wheel bearings, universal joints, belts, hoses, brakes, tires and
power options are potentially in trouble. Accelerate the engine. Look for smoke.
Black smokes means a tune-up or valve job. Blue smoke means oil is being burned
in the cylinders. Don't buy the car. It’s got problems too big for you to have to fix
before selling.
OVER 50,000 MILES
Check all the previous items carefully. Pay particular attention to oil burning
and any transmission or universal joint noise.
This discussion about mileage shouldn't scare you away from any car because
of what might be wrong. You sell your cars "as is." This section is only to help you
identify problems that may keep you from selling quickly and profitably.
EXTERIOR
Walk around the car. Never, never, never inspect a car at night or under
artificial lights. A beauty at night under soft lights can become a dog the next day in
the bright sunlight. One of the things the outside inspection will show is if the car
has been in an accident. Another is the presence of rust; obvious or hidden.
Here is a 10-point inspection list:
GLASS
Is the glass broken or cracked? Does the car have a current vehicle
inspection? Many states now require a current inspection sticker before a car title
can be transferred or the car sold. Check your state laws.
LIGHTS
Try all the lights, including brake and turn signals. Do the turn signals self-
cancel after turning?
RUST
Inspect carefully. Use your small magnet. Check rocker panels, wheel wells,
fenders and doors for plastic filler. Use a small cloth under the magnet so you won't
scratch the paint surface. Filler will be hiding rust that will pop out later! Get down
and look under the car. See any rust? Look for weld marks on the frame because of major accident damage. While your down there, look for fluid leaks on the car and on the ground. Don't buy a car with rust problems. No one else will want it and it’s too expensive to fix. Car dealers call rust "cancer". It's deadly!
PAINT
Check to see if the car is repainted. You can tell by lifting the molding edge
on the windshield right at the paint line. Also there may be paint over-spray in the
engine compartment or on the firewall. A new paint job may be hiding accident
repair damage or rust! Watch out for it! If you find no problems, the new paint job
is a big plus! If the paint is only faded, your detail shop can buff it out to a like-new
look.
Look for blisters in the paint on the rocker panels, on the bottoms of the doors
and around the door and window frames. These are usually severe rust problems
surfacing under the paint. Sometimes you can pop these blisters with a fingernail
and see the rust.
DOOR, HOOD and TRUNK
Do they all work? Do they all lock? Are they all in alignment with the body?
Open each door and gently push it shut. Don't slam it. If it hits and bounces off the
latch, it is misaligned. This could mean frame damage. Be alert for frame welds
when checking under the car.
Look in the trunk. Check under the mat for rust. Is there a spare tire, lug
wrench and jack? Is the spare tire the right size for the car. Is it flat? Does the lug
wrench fit the lugs? While you're in the rear of car, check for signs of a trailer hitch,
actual or removed. Towing heavy loads can devastate an engine and transmission.
TAIL PIPE
Check the deposit on the inside with your finger. It should be a white or gray
residue. Black and sooty may mean a tune-up. Black and gummy means the car is
burning oil! Is the muffler and catalytic converter intact?
TIRES
Are they ok? Do they show any abnormal wear because of suspension or
alignment problems? Again, is there a spare?
SHOCKS
Bounce each corner up and down 4 or 5 times. The car should only bounce
once after you stop. Check to see if any of the shocks are leaking.
ALIGNMENT
Park the car on a flat level surface. Move away about 30 feet from the car.
Check the car. Does it set level? Squat down and look. Are the tires in line with
each other?
WHEELS
Grab hold of the top of the front wheels. Try to pull and push them to see if
they wobble. Wheel bearings or ball joints may be bad if they do.
GAS TANK
If the car uses unleaded fuel only, is the retainer for the smaller pump nozzles
still in the filler pipe? With older cars some owners punched them out to use
cheaper leaded gasoline. This destroys the catalytic converter and the car will fail
state inspection.
INTERIOR
The inside inspection of the car can tell you how well the car was taken care
of. If the interior is dirty and neglected, the owner probably treated the mechanical
needs the same. A car that has been maintained will be worth more.
A little dirt doesn't hurt. Look beneath the dirt and grime and check the basic
physical condition. Always see if you can turn a liability into an asset. You are
going to make it spic and span before the next buyer sees it.
Here is a 7-point inspection list for the interior:
SEATS
Sit in each one. Are they lumpy or have broken springs? Any tears or rips? Is
the back seat worn (taxicab)? Do they slide back and forth easily?
MATS
Look under the mats and carpets for rust. Do the pedals reflect equivalent
wear for the mileage on the odometer?
DOORS
Check the rubber molding around the doors. Look for abnormal wear on the
driver's armrest. Does the wear match the odometer miles?
SMELL
Is it musty smelling or strongly deodorized to cover smells? Musty smells can mean leaks and rust or worse, a car that has been flooded. Note: Smokers' cars
are difficult to resell. It's almost impossible to deodorize the smoke smell from a
car. I don't recommend you purchase smoker's cars.
ODOMETER
What is the mileage? Does it meet your standards for the age of the vehicle?
If it is high mileage, were they highway or city miles? Highway miles are half the
wear and tear of stop and go city travel.
In 1989, a federal law requires the odometer reading be entered on the title in
all states. In 1972, a federal law made it illegal to change, disconnect or tamper with
the odometer. It still happens! Check the dashboard for scratch marks, missing
screws or other indications. Are all the numbers on the odometer lined up? Rolling
back the odometer sometimes causes misaligned numbers.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
Do all the gauges, lights and controls work? Horn? Radio? Air
conditioning? Heater? Do all the idiot lights come on when you turn the key? If
not, they may be disconnected to cover up a problem. Do they go out when you
start the engine? Is it a rat's nest under the dashboard? Is there any loose or hanging
wiring? Why?
WINDOWS
Do they ALL operate smoothly?
ENGINE/TRANSMISSION
RADIATOR
Look into the radiator. Is there an oil film on top of the water? If there is, it
indicates oil is leaking into the cooling system. This means a cracked block. If the
water is rusty, the radiator may need replacing soon. Check inside the filler neck
with your finger. Sludge or gunk means a "stop-leak" has been used to plug holes in
the system.
OIL
Oil that is murky brown, gray or bubbly has water in it. This is a sure
indication of a cracked block. Grit or gum in the oil means it hasn't been changed
often. The owner may not have properly maintained the engine. Ask how often he
changed the oil. Only believe what he says if there are receipts or spare filters and
oil in the garage.
Remove the oil filler cap while the engine is running. If smoke is seen
coming from the hole, the piston rings are worn and allowing gasses from the
cylinders to escape. This is called blow-by and is an indication of a worn engine.
TRANSMISSION FLUID
Check it. Low means there is a leak. Should be a red color. Brown means
there has been no maintenance done on the transmission. Smell the fluid. If it
smells burned, it means the transmission has lots of wear. Pieces of metal in the
fluid show the gears are being ground off. Stay away from any transmission
problems.
ENGINE
Check for oil leaks. Remove the filler cap and feel for sludge or grit in the
valve cover. If the engine has been cleaned, you won't see oil leaks. If the engine
has been cleaned, extend your test drive to 30-45 minutes with some high speed
highway driving. Look for leaks again after the test drive.
Pull one spark plug and check it. Auto repair manuals in your public library
will show you how to diagnose the plug. To be a real pro, learn how to do a
compression check on engines. It's not hard; can be done easily at the seller's house.
The repair manuals like Chilton's show you how. Check them out from your public
library or purchase one from your local auto parts store.
Are the pollution control devices intact? Some areas of the country
(California) require the seller to provide a smog certificate. If the devices are not
present, you may be in for several hundreds of dollars in repairs before you can sell
the car! Find and
understand your state laws regarding air quality control devices in the sale and
purchase of cars.
BELTS
Are the belts frayed, cracked or loose? Squeeze the water hoses. Are they
soft and supple or hardened and cracked?
TEST DRIVE
Now it's time to see how the car "feels". This is the same part of the buying
process your customers will use to decide if they really want the car. If it doesn't
"feel" right, they won't buy it! If it doesn’t feel right to you then pass. Recently I
drove a car that didn’t “feel” right to me. I asked the owner to let me have it
checked out at a local garage. A $1100 estimate to fix all the “little” items I found.
Start the engine. Get out. Open the hood. Listen to the engine. Check out
any unusual noises. Did the car start easily? Does it idle smoothly. Be concerned
about a rough idle. It could mean anything from a simple tune-up to a major engine
overhaul.
Drive the car on a variety of road conditions. This should include a bumpy
road, freeway driving, city driving and hills. Drive the car with the window down.
You want to "hear" the car.
The following 7-point checklist will help you decide on the car.
STEERING
Look out the window. Does the tire turn at the same time you turn the
steering wheel? If it doesn't turn in the first 2 inches of steering wheel movement,
you may have major suspension problems. On power steering, turn and lock the
wheels in both directions. There should be no screeches or bouncing.
EXHAUST
As you're driving, check the exhaust in the rear view mirror. Blue smoke
means burning oil. Don't buy! Black smoke means it may need a tune up. White
smoke when starting is only water vapor in the exhaust pipe. White smoke during
driving means water in the cylinders!
BRAKES
Check to see if there is at least 2 inches between the pedal and floor when you
push it down as far as you can. Do the brakes screech, pull or fade when applied?
Make a quick stop. Does the car pull or dip to one side? If it does, it could mean
brake and/or suspension trouble.
Check the parking brake on a hill. Does it hold? If not, the rear brakes may
be worn out or the hand brake needs adjusting. Don't pass up a good car for brake
problems. They are easily fixed. Just deduct the cost from your offer.
ALIGNMENT
Does the car track straight when you let go of the wheel? Drive the car up to
speeds of 60 mph to see if there are any vibrations.
ENGINE
Are there any unusual noises? Pinging or tapping? Does it idle smoothly?
Was it easy to start? Any acceleration hesitation? If there appears to be an engine
problem, don't buy until you have a mechanic check it out. Ask the owner if he'll
split the cost of the check-out.
TRANSMISSION
Move the transmission from drive to reverse with your foot on the brake.
You should hear nothing or a soft thump. A clunk means problems. Don't buy!
Drive the car in reverse for at least 200 feet to check its operation. The transmission
should shift smoothly and operate with no noise. Does it balk or jerk during
shifting? If it does, don't buy the car.
LEAKS
Put the car through a self-service car wash to check for water leaks.
LOOKING UNDERNEATH
While on the test drive, stop at a service station and offer a few bucks to put the
car up on a lift. (If you can find a service station anymore!) Looking at the bottom
will give you a different prospective about the car. Check the following.
Engine/transmission leaks
Brake line leaks
Shock absorber leaks
Accident damage repair
Check fender wells for creases or repairs
Frame welds
Rocker panel rust
TIME
Drive the car for at least 10 -15 miles (45 minutes). At the end of the test
drive, leave the engine running, raise the hood and check the engine compartment
again. Look, listen and smell for anything unusual or different: noise, smoke, oil
leaks, burning smell, squeaks, pinging, any problems? If so, investigate.
Author's note: I don't believe in buying new cars for personal use. You can find
excellent used cars at low prices and save $1000's. This section of the manual can
be used to check cars for personal use. I believe it is the most thorough and
complete used car checklist you can find.
Like this article?
Don't hurry the inspection. Let the seller know you are picky! This attitude
will help you negotiate a better deal. It As you look over the car, verbalize all the
Problems you find. Will help deflate the seller's ego about his car. Your job is to
Convince him the car is not worth what he thinks. In fact, you want to create the
idea you're doing him a favor buying such a car. Be subtle! Don't actually say what
I just wrote. By pointing out all the problems with the car you'll be accomplishing
the same thing.
Make a list of the defects as you inspect. You can use this list as a bargaining
tool when you begin to negotiate the price. Every problem you AND he are aware
takes dollars off his asking price.
There are some basic tools you should take to help do a good inspection. A
flashlight: use it to look for rust in wheel wells. Have some rags to wipe your hands
and to check fluid levels. A magnet will help you determine if plastic body filler has
been used to replace rusted metal. You'll need a screwdriver to poke around. Have
a spark plug wrench with you. You'll want to pull one plug to check engine
performance. Don't rely on your memory. A small note pad and pen should be used
to keep track of the defects you find.
There are six parts to a thorough car inspection.
1. EYEBALLS
2. MILEAGE
3. EXTERIOR
4. INTERIOR
5. ENGINE/DRIVE TRAIN
6. TEST DRIVE
EYEBALLS
What is your first eyeball impression of the car? How do you feel about the
car? Do you like its overall looks? Don't look at the dirt or the need for a wash and
wax job. Look at the car! Does it have basic curb appeal? Would you buy it for
yourself?
Don't under estimate this part of the inspection! If you don't like the car
others won't either. You don't want to have to "sell". You want the car to sell itself
after a little cosmetic work. Did it "sell" you? If not, forget it. Walk away. There
will be others!
Remember, if you are purchasing a product for resale. It’s a business
transaction, nothing else. To maximize your profits and minimize your risks, the car
must have this curbside appeal. No one wants to drive a "new" car that isn't nice.
The car must be "pleasant", but not necessarily a cream puff. The new owner must
be proud of his purchase. Remember. " If it looks good, it must be good!" Right?
Wrong, wrong, wrong! And that leads us right into the inspection.
MILEAGE
The mileage of a vehicle can be used as a general indicator for common
problems. You'll want to look for these problems when you do your inspection.
History has shown that after major milestones certain parts may fail.
A car should average 12,000 miles a year. Anything substantially more or
less can mean a problem. When a car reaches 100,000 or more miles, the need for a
thorough inspection is nil. The potential for major problems is so great most buyers
will be afraid of the car. If you do buy a car with this kind of mileage, make sure
you steal it i.e., $500 to $800 dollars and don't expect to make more than $300 to
$500 profit. It is very risky to buy this kind of car.
So let's talk about the things to watch for at major mileage milestones.
UNDER 20,000 MILES
A car with this few miles has either no problems or a lot of problems. Be
careful, it could be a lemon! It may have had the odometer rolled back. But buyer,
you beware! Why is the owner selling a low mileage car?
20,000 to 30,000 MILES
Brakes and tires may be going at this mileage. Check them. Look for
unusual wear of the tires. Starters, alternators and electrical operated systems may
begin failing.
30,000 to 40,000 MILES
The suspension system is beginning to weaken in this middle mileage car.
Use the road test to check it. Does it shimmy; pull to one side? Listen for
transmission noise and clunk in the universal joints when starting up or shifting
gears. When was the last front end alignment done? Check the tires for abnormal
wear indicating a suspension problem.
40,000 to 50,000 MILES
Transmissions, wheel bearings, universal joints, belts, hoses, brakes, tires and
power options are potentially in trouble. Accelerate the engine. Look for smoke.
Black smokes means a tune-up or valve job. Blue smoke means oil is being burned
in the cylinders. Don't buy the car. It’s got problems too big for you to have to fix
before selling.
OVER 50,000 MILES
Check all the previous items carefully. Pay particular attention to oil burning
and any transmission or universal joint noise.
This discussion about mileage shouldn't scare you away from any car because
of what might be wrong. You sell your cars "as is." This section is only to help you
identify problems that may keep you from selling quickly and profitably.
EXTERIOR
Walk around the car. Never, never, never inspect a car at night or under
artificial lights. A beauty at night under soft lights can become a dog the next day in
the bright sunlight. One of the things the outside inspection will show is if the car
has been in an accident. Another is the presence of rust; obvious or hidden.
Here is a 10-point inspection list:
GLASS
Is the glass broken or cracked? Does the car have a current vehicle
inspection? Many states now require a current inspection sticker before a car title
can be transferred or the car sold. Check your state laws.
LIGHTS
Try all the lights, including brake and turn signals. Do the turn signals self-
cancel after turning?
RUST
Inspect carefully. Use your small magnet. Check rocker panels, wheel wells,
fenders and doors for plastic filler. Use a small cloth under the magnet so you won't
scratch the paint surface. Filler will be hiding rust that will pop out later! Get down
and look under the car. See any rust? Look for weld marks on the frame because of major accident damage. While your down there, look for fluid leaks on the car and on the ground. Don't buy a car with rust problems. No one else will want it and it’s too expensive to fix. Car dealers call rust "cancer". It's deadly!
PAINT
Check to see if the car is repainted. You can tell by lifting the molding edge
on the windshield right at the paint line. Also there may be paint over-spray in the
engine compartment or on the firewall. A new paint job may be hiding accident
repair damage or rust! Watch out for it! If you find no problems, the new paint job
is a big plus! If the paint is only faded, your detail shop can buff it out to a like-new
look.
Look for blisters in the paint on the rocker panels, on the bottoms of the doors
and around the door and window frames. These are usually severe rust problems
surfacing under the paint. Sometimes you can pop these blisters with a fingernail
and see the rust.
DOOR, HOOD and TRUNK
Do they all work? Do they all lock? Are they all in alignment with the body?
Open each door and gently push it shut. Don't slam it. If it hits and bounces off the
latch, it is misaligned. This could mean frame damage. Be alert for frame welds
when checking under the car.
Look in the trunk. Check under the mat for rust. Is there a spare tire, lug
wrench and jack? Is the spare tire the right size for the car. Is it flat? Does the lug
wrench fit the lugs? While you're in the rear of car, check for signs of a trailer hitch,
actual or removed. Towing heavy loads can devastate an engine and transmission.
TAIL PIPE
Check the deposit on the inside with your finger. It should be a white or gray
residue. Black and sooty may mean a tune-up. Black and gummy means the car is
burning oil! Is the muffler and catalytic converter intact?
TIRES
Are they ok? Do they show any abnormal wear because of suspension or
alignment problems? Again, is there a spare?
SHOCKS
Bounce each corner up and down 4 or 5 times. The car should only bounce
once after you stop. Check to see if any of the shocks are leaking.
ALIGNMENT
Park the car on a flat level surface. Move away about 30 feet from the car.
Check the car. Does it set level? Squat down and look. Are the tires in line with
each other?
WHEELS
Grab hold of the top of the front wheels. Try to pull and push them to see if
they wobble. Wheel bearings or ball joints may be bad if they do.
GAS TANK
If the car uses unleaded fuel only, is the retainer for the smaller pump nozzles
still in the filler pipe? With older cars some owners punched them out to use
cheaper leaded gasoline. This destroys the catalytic converter and the car will fail
state inspection.
INTERIOR
The inside inspection of the car can tell you how well the car was taken care
of. If the interior is dirty and neglected, the owner probably treated the mechanical
needs the same. A car that has been maintained will be worth more.
A little dirt doesn't hurt. Look beneath the dirt and grime and check the basic
physical condition. Always see if you can turn a liability into an asset. You are
going to make it spic and span before the next buyer sees it.
Here is a 7-point inspection list for the interior:
SEATS
Sit in each one. Are they lumpy or have broken springs? Any tears or rips? Is
the back seat worn (taxicab)? Do they slide back and forth easily?
MATS
Look under the mats and carpets for rust. Do the pedals reflect equivalent
wear for the mileage on the odometer?
DOORS
Check the rubber molding around the doors. Look for abnormal wear on the
driver's armrest. Does the wear match the odometer miles?
SMELL
Is it musty smelling or strongly deodorized to cover smells? Musty smells can mean leaks and rust or worse, a car that has been flooded. Note: Smokers' cars
are difficult to resell. It's almost impossible to deodorize the smoke smell from a
car. I don't recommend you purchase smoker's cars.
ODOMETER
What is the mileage? Does it meet your standards for the age of the vehicle?
If it is high mileage, were they highway or city miles? Highway miles are half the
wear and tear of stop and go city travel.
In 1989, a federal law requires the odometer reading be entered on the title in
all states. In 1972, a federal law made it illegal to change, disconnect or tamper with
the odometer. It still happens! Check the dashboard for scratch marks, missing
screws or other indications. Are all the numbers on the odometer lined up? Rolling
back the odometer sometimes causes misaligned numbers.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
Do all the gauges, lights and controls work? Horn? Radio? Air
conditioning? Heater? Do all the idiot lights come on when you turn the key? If
not, they may be disconnected to cover up a problem. Do they go out when you
start the engine? Is it a rat's nest under the dashboard? Is there any loose or hanging
wiring? Why?
WINDOWS
Do they ALL operate smoothly?
ENGINE/TRANSMISSION
RADIATOR
Look into the radiator. Is there an oil film on top of the water? If there is, it
indicates oil is leaking into the cooling system. This means a cracked block. If the
water is rusty, the radiator may need replacing soon. Check inside the filler neck
with your finger. Sludge or gunk means a "stop-leak" has been used to plug holes in
the system.
OIL
Oil that is murky brown, gray or bubbly has water in it. This is a sure
indication of a cracked block. Grit or gum in the oil means it hasn't been changed
often. The owner may not have properly maintained the engine. Ask how often he
changed the oil. Only believe what he says if there are receipts or spare filters and
oil in the garage.
Remove the oil filler cap while the engine is running. If smoke is seen
coming from the hole, the piston rings are worn and allowing gasses from the
cylinders to escape. This is called blow-by and is an indication of a worn engine.
TRANSMISSION FLUID
Check it. Low means there is a leak. Should be a red color. Brown means
there has been no maintenance done on the transmission. Smell the fluid. If it
smells burned, it means the transmission has lots of wear. Pieces of metal in the
fluid show the gears are being ground off. Stay away from any transmission
problems.
ENGINE
Check for oil leaks. Remove the filler cap and feel for sludge or grit in the
valve cover. If the engine has been cleaned, you won't see oil leaks. If the engine
has been cleaned, extend your test drive to 30-45 minutes with some high speed
highway driving. Look for leaks again after the test drive.
Pull one spark plug and check it. Auto repair manuals in your public library
will show you how to diagnose the plug. To be a real pro, learn how to do a
compression check on engines. It's not hard; can be done easily at the seller's house.
The repair manuals like Chilton's show you how. Check them out from your public
library or purchase one from your local auto parts store.
Are the pollution control devices intact? Some areas of the country
(California) require the seller to provide a smog certificate. If the devices are not
present, you may be in for several hundreds of dollars in repairs before you can sell
the car! Find and
understand your state laws regarding air quality control devices in the sale and
purchase of cars.
BELTS
Are the belts frayed, cracked or loose? Squeeze the water hoses. Are they
soft and supple or hardened and cracked?
TEST DRIVE
Now it's time to see how the car "feels". This is the same part of the buying
process your customers will use to decide if they really want the car. If it doesn't
"feel" right, they won't buy it! If it doesn’t feel right to you then pass. Recently I
drove a car that didn’t “feel” right to me. I asked the owner to let me have it
checked out at a local garage. A $1100 estimate to fix all the “little” items I found.
Start the engine. Get out. Open the hood. Listen to the engine. Check out
any unusual noises. Did the car start easily? Does it idle smoothly. Be concerned
about a rough idle. It could mean anything from a simple tune-up to a major engine
overhaul.
Drive the car on a variety of road conditions. This should include a bumpy
road, freeway driving, city driving and hills. Drive the car with the window down.
You want to "hear" the car.
The following 7-point checklist will help you decide on the car.
STEERING
Look out the window. Does the tire turn at the same time you turn the
steering wheel? If it doesn't turn in the first 2 inches of steering wheel movement,
you may have major suspension problems. On power steering, turn and lock the
wheels in both directions. There should be no screeches or bouncing.
EXHAUST
As you're driving, check the exhaust in the rear view mirror. Blue smoke
means burning oil. Don't buy! Black smoke means it may need a tune up. White
smoke when starting is only water vapor in the exhaust pipe. White smoke during
driving means water in the cylinders!
BRAKES
Check to see if there is at least 2 inches between the pedal and floor when you
push it down as far as you can. Do the brakes screech, pull or fade when applied?
Make a quick stop. Does the car pull or dip to one side? If it does, it could mean
brake and/or suspension trouble.
Check the parking brake on a hill. Does it hold? If not, the rear brakes may
be worn out or the hand brake needs adjusting. Don't pass up a good car for brake
problems. They are easily fixed. Just deduct the cost from your offer.
ALIGNMENT
Does the car track straight when you let go of the wheel? Drive the car up to
speeds of 60 mph to see if there are any vibrations.
ENGINE
Are there any unusual noises? Pinging or tapping? Does it idle smoothly?
Was it easy to start? Any acceleration hesitation? If there appears to be an engine
problem, don't buy until you have a mechanic check it out. Ask the owner if he'll
split the cost of the check-out.
TRANSMISSION
Move the transmission from drive to reverse with your foot on the brake.
You should hear nothing or a soft thump. A clunk means problems. Don't buy!
Drive the car in reverse for at least 200 feet to check its operation. The transmission
should shift smoothly and operate with no noise. Does it balk or jerk during
shifting? If it does, don't buy the car.
LEAKS
Put the car through a self-service car wash to check for water leaks.
LOOKING UNDERNEATH
While on the test drive, stop at a service station and offer a few bucks to put the
car up on a lift. (If you can find a service station anymore!) Looking at the bottom
will give you a different prospective about the car. Check the following.
Engine/transmission leaks
Brake line leaks
Shock absorber leaks
Accident damage repair
Check fender wells for creases or repairs
Frame welds
Rocker panel rust
TIME
Drive the car for at least 10 -15 miles (45 minutes). At the end of the test
drive, leave the engine running, raise the hood and check the engine compartment
again. Look, listen and smell for anything unusual or different: noise, smoke, oil
leaks, burning smell, squeaks, pinging, any problems? If so, investigate.
Author's note: I don't believe in buying new cars for personal use. You can find
excellent used cars at low prices and save $1000's. This section of the manual can
be used to check cars for personal use. I believe it is the most thorough and
complete used car checklist you can find.
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